Archive for About Cruising
When In Belfast, See City Hall
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Crystal Symphony recently called on Belfast. One of the key attractions in the capital of Northern Ireland is the Belfast City Hall, situated in the city center.
Built mainly from Portland stone in Baroque Revival style, Belfast City Hall dominates the city center skyline. The design of the building is reminiscent of London’s Old Bailey.
Free guided tours are offered daily, except Sundays. Monday through Friday the 45-minute to one-hour tours are offered at 11 a.m., 2 p.m. and 3 p.m. On Saturdays, tours are offered at 2 p.m. and 3 p.m. If you plan to join a tour, show up in the City Hall reception area 15 minutes in advance.
Plans for the City Hall began in 1888 when Queen Victoria awarded Belfast city status. The original proclamation can be seen in the reception area. City status was in recognition of Belfast’s expansion and thriving industries, including ship-building (Titanic was constructed here) and linen.
Construction of the city hall began in 1898 under the supervision of architect Sir Alfred Brumwell Thomas and was completed in 1906. Durban, South Africa’s City Hall is almost an exact replica of Belfast’s City Hall.
Belfast City Hall was officially reopened on October 12, 2009, following a two-year refurbishment. U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton performed a ribbon cutting ceremony and unveilled a plaque to mark the reopening.
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Eyeing Eidfjord’s Shore Excursions
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Yesterday, we traveled by helicopter from Bergen to Eidfjord, an exhilarating 30-minute trip. I can certainly recommend that anyone cruising Norway pony up for at least one helicopter excursion.
Seeing the topography from up above provides a completely different perspective of this mountainous and fjord-rich country. “It’s an amazing way to see the landscape,” says Aslaug Selland, director of shore excursions for European Cruise Service, based in Bergen. “For most people, it is an experience that they will never forget.”
You need spend no more than 20 minutes aloft from Eidfjord to see Voringsfossen, Norway’s best-known waterfall, and the Hardangervidda plateau, two of Eidfjord’s top attractions.
Eidfjord’s Top Shore Excursions
If you’re not for going “up in the air,” there are many “down to earth” shore excursions in and around Eidfjord. A sampling includes:
- The Voringsfossen waterfall – (as mentioned)
- Hardangervidda Plateau – an experience that provides an immersion into the dramatic scenery and beautiful nature of Europe’s largest mountain plateau.
- Fjord cruises - For those who want to get even closer to the Hardangerfjord, cruises with local boats or ferries are offered.
- Kjeasen Mountain Farm in Simadel - Experience traditional Norwegian farm life from the perspective of the owner of the farm. Good views along the 15-kilometer drive from the port.
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Seabourn Odyssey Acapulco
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Clouds, a bit of misty drizzle, but otherwise warm weather greeted us as we docked. There was, as in any port area, floating debris, but not for long. A crew assigned to pick up the trash was on duty.
I was first in Acapulco aboard a Greek ship, the Jason. A semi-regular on Petticoat Junction, I was traveling with Linda Kaye Henning and Mike Minor, stars of the series. After a late dinner at a hilltop restaurant, we hailed a taxi.
The driver spoke little English, so I said, “Quiermos a ir a la barca” Somewhat close to we want to go to the boat. There were not many cruise ships those days, so I figured he’s know where the “barca” was.
He did not understand, so I tried a different phrase. “Vamanos a la barca”. No reaction.
Mike looked him in the eye and said, “We go el boato.” And off we went.
Years later Michael (my wife if you have just joined us) and I were in port and went to a place on the beach called El Paradiseo. It served the best snapper I’ve ever tasted, and also the strongest margaritas; possibly with kerosene added to the tequila. Before our snapper arrived, we were both swimming in the surf with all our clothes on.
Some years later, arriving from the Acapulco Airport and heading to the port we passed Costco and Walmart. It felt like home. As a matter of fact the biggest difference between LA and Acapulco is everyone in Acapulco speaks English. But I digress.
Acapulco has changed. Just last June, soldiers fought a two-hour battle with heavily armed men holed up at a house in an Acapulco hotel zone. Http://www.travel-acapulco.com says, “To avoid getting into trouble and avoid scams in Acapulco, the general rule of thumb is to walk away from anyone who comes up to you and offers you something, unless you already know and trust that person. Keep a low profile – this is probably the “Golden Rule” of Mexico, and is especially applicable in Acapulco.”
I say Acapulco has changed, and I would add, so have we. This time we stayed on the ship. Others who went to see the famed cliff divers loved the tour.
My advice these days? When in Acapulco take a ship’s tour. And if you need information, well that’s up to you.
Back on board it was party time on the pool deck with caviar and cucaracha. On our way out of port, I mentioned to the Assistant Cruise Director that I was waiting for the ship to stop so the band could swim home. He changed the subject.
Dinner again at Colonnade. Sitting outside eating by candlelight and watching the shore lights fade, is hard to beat. Michael loved her appetizer of Twice Baked Boursin Cheese Soufflé with roasted sweet garlic cream. It was the best thing she had ever eaten that wasn’t dessert. She asked the server if she could have another. His reply?
“On Seabourn Odyssey, what you want, you can have.”
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Port Profile: Zeebrugge, Belgium
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Today’s feature, Zeebrugge, gateway to Bruges, Belgium.
While mind reading is admittedly a tricky skill, it’s probably safe to assume that most visitors do not disembark from their cruise ship in Zeebrugge with the intention to explore this Belgian destination. For most travellers, nearby Bruges is the main reason to put this region of the world on their list of places to visit. The capital of the province of West Flanders, Bruges is world famous for its historic city center. As important as Zeebrugge is from an economic perspective – primarily due to the port – it is probably not a wild guess to assume that Zeebrugge (literally: Bruges-on-sea) will continue to live in the shadows when it comes to tourism.
In all honesty, Zeebrugge will be in good company. Bruges is a difficult destination to compete with in almost any field, whether it concerns history or atmosphere. It’s not a coincidence that the entire historical city center has been included on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. This city of some 120,000 inhabitants even features 100 kilometers of canals, something that has resulted in the city being referred to as “the Venice of the north” (a nickname that, of course, also applies to a couple of other northern cities, such as Amsterdam and Stockholm).
Click here to view cruises to Northern Europe and Belgium.
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On Silver Wind: Ready, Sete, Go – Market Visit & Cooking Class
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Today’s Silver Shore Collection excursion: A visit to the market to buy fresh bread, fish and produce, then off to a local kitchen only a few steps away for a cooking class, French style.
The six-hour excursion started with a visit to the local markets: There were three, all in close proximity to Silver Wind and one another — a flower market; an outdoor market (operating only on Wednesdays and where you’ll find everything from fresh produce, cheese and ham to infused olive oils and just-out-of-the-oven bread); and the covered market, where we shopped for mussels and squid.
In all three markets, we shopped with our guide (Danielle Dumontel) and chef (Carole Aragon) for ingredients to prepare lunch in Carole’s shop/restaurant, called La Decoratrice.
The market alone was quite an experience, particularly as we had a guide who could inform us about what we were seeing — and who knew where, and where not, to shop.
The experience was not only informative but also intimate, with only seven guests participating, plus Carole’s two lovely daughters and our guide.
Donning aprons and knives, we chopped, grated, sliced and diced to prepare a meal better than we could have imagined possible. Scotsman Steve Robertson, called our risotto, with calamari and mussels, the best he’d ever had.
American Jill Steward said: “One of the things I really like about coming to this cooking class is that we feel like we’re in her home and cooking traditional food. I don’t know of any other place where I could have had this experience. I’m really glad that we participated.”
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Simply the Best?
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After sailing on SeaDream II, I’m better qualified to answer the question I posed at the outset of my cruise, and that was: How do SeaDream’s twin yachts, both more than 20 years old, outperform all others — at least to readers of Conde Nast Traveler?
There were aspects of my cruise that were not unique to SeaDream, and you could argue that other cruise lines do the job as good as or better than SeaDream.
Open-seating dining, the quality of the cuisine, and the fact that alcohol and gratuities are included mirrors what you’d expect on small luxury ships.
SeaDream’s ability to get into small ports, its wide expanse of deck space and its marina with all of the toys reminds me of a ship that sailed along beside us during much of the week: Windstar Cruises’ Wind Surf, a special ship in its own right.
But there are some areas where SeaDream stands apart. The company’s late nights in port combined with outdoor dinners appears to be unique.
And while at least one other cruise line offers opportunities to sleep under the stars, SeaDream makes a luxury experience out of it, even down to the custom-embroidered pajamas.
Seabourn Cruise Line offers something similar to the Crew Shoreside Casual, but SeaDream takes it one step further with the Captain’s hike. The pun was not intended, by the way.
Nearly all cruise lines claim excellent staff and cuisine — they better; their reputations depend on it — but SeaDream II really did shine in these areas. The crew exhibited a friendliness and enthusiasm that went beyond what their jobs required. They had a sort of spirit.
Moreover, wtith 94 crew members, the 110-passenger SeaDream II boasts a nearly one-to-one staff-to-guest ratio.
Should SeaDream be the only cruise company in Conde Nast Traveler’s top 100 travel experiences? My feeling is that several other cruise companies qualify for the list.
That’s not a knock on SeaDream, but rather a vote for cruising over other forms of vacation. After all, can you think of a hotel that can take you from one destination to another while you sleep? I can’t.
Nor is SeaDream perfect for everyone. Families traveling with kids are welcomed, but SeaDream is an adult-oriented experience. That said, families do charter the SeaDream vessels, and both yachts are chartered on a regular basis.
The important question, however, is this one: Will SeaDream make your list of top travel experiences? Only you can answer that.
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Sensational Sintra & The Portuguese Riviera
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This morning in Lisbon, I joined a Silversea Cruises shore excursion called Romantic Sintra & Portuguese Riviera. Beautiful Sintra is a short drive from the docks of Lisbon and well worth the visit.
The 4.5-hour tour on a modern and uncrowded motorcoach took us to the enchanting fairy-tale town of Sintra, a mountainous and multi-castled town that was once a favorite destination of 19th-century aristocrats. We had about 90 minutes to tour the town with a guide or on our own.
We then went to Cascais, a fishing village turned resort on the Portuguese Riviera, where we spent about an hour before heading back to Lisbon.
On The Mekong
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Wednesday, April 7, 5:30 p.m. Cruising into Tan Chau, Vietnam — The early-evening sun appears as a bright orange orb descending into the Mekong. La Marguerite slows its pace, sailing into Tan Chau, the last Vietnamese outpost before the vessel crosses into Cambodia tomorrow. On board, passengers are enjoying a variety of activities. Some are cooling off in the pool, some are sipping cocktails, some are attempting to get the perfect snapshot of the sunset. All appear happy to be exploring a region relatively new to tourism and river cruising.
On this day and on prior days, we have stepped ashore for tours included in our cruise fare. The tours are well-organized and visually stimulating. Nearly any direction that a camera can be pointed frames a photograph worthy of keeping. Today, nearly midway through our eight-day cruise, and already we have a shoebox full of memories and experiences. “I’ve taken at least 500 photos,” says a man from Helsinki. With each destination, it seems that it cannot get any better, and yet somehow it does.
Today in Sa Dec was no exception. The impression for me and for other passengers I spoke with is that we are touring destinations still unspoiled by mass tourism. Indeed, we see few other Westerners as we walk through the markets and streets of the villages along the Mekong.
People wave to us, happy when we wave back. Some smile, some laugh, some cover their mouths in embarrassment. “People are eager to talk and communicate with foreigners,” says our articulate and affable guide Thoai.
We see no drunks, no beggars, not a single palm extended for a handout. No one is hassling us to buy anything. On the contrary, they joke with us, taunting us with good humor. A Dutch couple has brought their two young children on the cruise. At the market, the kids, ages 5 and 7, giggle when a grinning old woman shoves a live catfish toward them.
River cruising only recently started here in the Mekong, and in the towns and villages along the Mekong, it is as if the locals have never seen people of our race. “It’s almost like we are the attractions,” says Rudi Schreiner, president of AmaWaterways. The Southern California-based company began operations on the Mekong in the fall of last year and has plans to build a small fleet of river cruise vessels, operating on the same model that made its European river cruises so successful.
Being here with a complement of passengers from Europe, Australia and only a small group of us from the United States, it is clear that we are all participating in the pioneering of something new. Pandaw Cruises has operated on the Mekong since 2004, but AmaWaterways is bringing a new luxury standard to the river, operating not only the first luxury vessel on the Mekong but also the first river-cruise vessel built by Vietnamese.
What Mekong River cruising offers is an authenticity of experience not easily found in a world increasingly overrun by mass tourism. Surely, the Mekong will be exposed to mass tourism in the not-too-distant future, but for now, the Mekong is unspoiled. If the region is on your bucket list, do it soon if you want an authentic experience.
And the experience truly is remarkable. Passengers I talked with express amazement with the destination and high satisfaction with the ship. They rave about the staterooms, food, staff and service. All are better than expected, passengers say.
La Marguerite’s staterooms are spacious, air-conditioned, and feature flat-panel televisions and large bathrooms. Meals are a mix of Asian and Western. Soft drinks, beer, wine and local spirits are served up free of charge. Excursions are included in the cruise fare. Wireless internet, while slow, is free to use. There’s a selection of DVDs and books. Other diversions: spa treatments, sauna, pool and sun deck. Should you be so inclined, there are exercise bikes and treadmills, lectures and even a big-screen, projector-style movie offered on two nights during our cruise.
Last night, we watched the steamy movie, The Lovers, based on a semi-autobiographical novel by the French writer Marguerite Duras (also the ship’s namesake). This morning, we toured the home in Sa Dec where Duras lived between 1928 and 1932, the time period during which the movie was based. Vietnam seems to have changed relatively little from that time period until now. The villages along the Mekong appear to be suspended in time. Some say that Vietnam is like Thailand used to be three or four decades ago. Change comes slowly to the villages along the Mekong.
Tomorrow afternoon, we cross the border into Cambodia. Schreiner says Cambodia represents the more spiritual part of the cruise, with its ubiquitous monks, temples and, of course, Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious relic. As good as it’s been, perhaps the best is yet to come.
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Seductive Saguenay
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It’s a 2.5-hour drive from Quebec City to the Saguenay region. We pointed our car toward La Baie, where we checked in to L’ Auberge des 21. Located on the shore of the Saguenay Fjord, the warm family inn also features fine regional (read: French) cuisine at a shockingly good restaurant for such a small inn.
The fact that the food was so good, however, should have come as no surprise. Saguenay may just be the most French of all the areas we visited during a one-week post-cruise vacation. Here, French is by far the predominant language. Our guide, Ingrid, who could express herself in English, had trouble pronouncing English words and phrases such as ‘rural roads.’ The ‘r’s simply would not loosen themselves from her lips. Most of Saguenay’s tourists, Ingrid told us, came from France or Belgium, so there were plenty of opportunities to speak French but few opportunities to practice English.
The front desk receptionist at L’ Auberge des 21 had no trouble with English, however, and she waxed poetic about how great it was to live in this remote region of the world. Life is slower here, she said, and much of the emphasis is on nature and fine living. ‘We know how to breathe,’ she said, alluding to the fact that many of her guests came from the busy and breathless pace of the big cities. ‘It’s nature by day,’ she said, ‘and romance by night.’ Indeed, after a day of sailing, we dined exquisitely over a bottle of wine while looking out on the beautiful fjord.
If you seek cultural diversions, visit the Musee du Fjord, or Museum of the Fjords; Verrerie d’Art Touverre, a glass-art workshop; and Olivier Soapery, a living economuseum emphasizing the traditional craft of soap-making in the early 19th century. The latter two are called Economy Museums.
The highlight of our trip, however, was a morning sailing in Saguenay fjord. On many sailing excursions, whales, especially Beluga whales, are often seen, but we saw none on our sailing. Still, it was a wonderful day out on the fjord.
To get to La Baie, we drove through the interior, but to return to Quebec City, we charted a route along the St. Lawrence River, through Charlevoix, where we stopped in Baie-Saint-Paul. The entire town had turned out for a Tour de France style bike race. The streets were closed. Spectators sipped glasses of wine and cheered the riders. Had we not known better, we could have sworn we were in France. But that’s just the way our whole trip had been. It was hard to believe that we were just north of the U.S. border. Never had a place so near home felt so far away.
For more information on booking a Canadian cruise, click here.
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Choose Your Cruise: Asia
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With such modern cities as Hong Kong, Bangkok and Singapore, vibrant village markets, stunning natural landscapes and fascinating cultures, few destinations are as exotic as Asia.
Cruise lines skirt the Asian coast, with popular itineraries calling on Vietnam, Thailand, Burma and Malaysia, a mix of destinations and diverse ports where the settings range from bustling cities to bucolic rural countryside. Cruises in Asia give passengers opportunities to sample myriad experiences that would be much more difficult to do on a land tour of the region. Asia cruises also allow passengers many chances to indulge in local cuisines, interact with ancient cultures, witness awe-inspring landscapes and explore regions dating back thousands of years. Moreover, Asia cruises give passengers the ability to explore Asia’s exotic cultures from the comforts and conveniences available on Western-style cruise ships.
In the past, Asia was a magnet for small luxury and expedition cruise lines, as well as a must-stop on around-the-world cruises. Recently, however, the large mainstream cruise lines have started to venture into the region.
An Asian cruise is a good alternative for the winter-weary. With the seasons reversed, it’s summer in the Southern Hemisphere, when it’s winter up north. And though travelers could opt for cruises in South America or the Caribbean during the Northern Hemisphere’s winter, Asia is a strong alternative for those seeking something truly exotic.
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